Martin Wassmer Muller Thurgau Kabinett Bad Krozinger
Martin Wassmer 2014 Muller Thurgau Kabinett Bad Krozinger Steingruble [75cl] Germany

Martin Wassmer is a bit of a genius in the vineyard and the winery. Take his Muller Thurgau for example. This is a striking example of what can be achieved by using old vines, low yields and having some of the best terroir - plus taking care and attention from the vineyard to the winery. The reason why you have never heard of Muller Thurgau is because Muller Thurgau has had a blotted history Dr Hermann Müller's 1882 crossing of Riesling with a table grape called Madeleine Royale played an important part in allowing the reputation of German wine to plummet. Taken up with enthusiasm by German growers after the Second World War, the vine has the practical advantages (in the cool German climate) of ripening extremely early, before the arrival of autumn rain in most years, and (unlike Riesling and Silvaner) yielding reliably on almost any site. The disadvantage is that the wine, especially if produced from high yields, has so little character and can be dangerously short of acid. It is almost invariably the major ingredient in Liebfraumilch and Germany's other cheap QbA blends.