Region: Germany, Baden

Grape variety: Pinot Noir

Background: Baden is earning itself some renown in the UK for its wines these days, particularly Pinot Noir. In the Markgraeferland, between the Black Forest and the Rhine, the undulating countryside and warm summer weather has led to the area becoming known as the German Tuscany and there is a history of winemaking that goes back almost as long as in the more famous Italian region. Here you will find the vineyards and cellars of Martin Wassmer, whose family have lived in and around the Baden town of Schlatt for many generations, most of them involved in the making of wine.

He specialises in the Pinots - Noir, Blanc and Gris (known here as spätburgunder, weissburgunder and grauburgunder), though he also grows and produces chardonnay, muscat, gewürztraminer and chasselas (aka gutedel). This part of Germany is, after all, a hop, skip and a jump away from the Alsace which shares all these varieties. Winemaking is traditional, with only natural yeasts used for the slow, long fermentations, and the wines are all aged in barrel with the top cuvées in Burgundian barriques for up to 18 months, with a minimal filtration before bottling.

Tasting notes: Aromatically restrained with a hint of cinnamon and anise. Opens up well with a surge of toasty oak, dark chocolate and ripe red fruit with touches of coffee and bacon. Grainy tannin and fine length give it an authoritative stamp.